Friday, December 14, 2012

3rd Step in Starting a New Army: Assembling your Models

3rd Step in Starting a New Army: Assembling your Models



After you figure out your color scheme its time to assemble your models. If you are just starting out you will want to remember to get the mold line off your model before you start to paint. There are a couple ways to accomplish this. The tools you will need are emery boards or files, and either a hobby knife or a citadel clean up kit I use all 4 of them. Warning a hobby knife is very sharp it is easy to cut yourself so be careful and that is another reason I like the citadel clean up kit it is a lot safer. I really like the citadel clean up kit because it is easy to cut too deep with a hobby knife however the clean up kit can’t reach some places a hobby knife can. It’s best to start with cutting the mold line out then use the hobby knife for any you can’t get to with the clean up kit and then use the emery boards or files to smooth the surface of the model out. One thing to note is that the emery boards will give you a much smoother surface then the files will. A lot of GW’s newer kits are easy because they have less mold lines but the older kits can take forever if you want to get all the mold lines out. The Necron Warriors fall into this group and take a long time to get all the mold lines out. This is not a step that you need to do, however I highly recommend it because it will be worth it in the end and your models will look a lot better. When it comes to assembly before painting I prefer to leave most of the model apart and paint it in pieces this is. I paint my models in pieces because if you assemble the entire model before you start to paint it is a lot hard to reach some parts of the model and your paint job will not be as detailed. If you paint your models in pieces make sure that you take your time when assembling the model after you finish painting and don’t rush gluing the model together because you can ruin your paint job.


  As far as what type of glue you should use super glue works for medal, fine cast and resin models. Super glue can take a long time to dry so you can buy a product called zip kicker it accelerates the drying process to almost instantaneously. However there are a couple things you want to remember if you use zip kicker 1. Do not spray on a painted model it will destroy your paint job 2. Be careful if you get super glue on your skin before you spray it because it will burn like a mother if the two mix while on your skin 3. The bond will not be as strong as would have been if you just let the super glue dry on its own. One thing I have used to help with the 3rd problem is after u use the zip kicker whip where area so it has no zip kicker left on it then a little later put a little super glue all around the edge of the joint. If you are assembling plastic models then use plastic glue it works the best I recommend using model master plastic glue because it comes in a plastic container with a small metal tube up top which makes it easy to control where the glue goes and how much comes out.


Another Important tool in assembling models that needs to be mentioned is Green Stuff. Green stuff is amazing it has the consistency of silly puddy that when left to dry hardens to a rock like state. It can be used for something as to fill in the gaps left from assembling models to sculpting entire models made of nothing but green stuff it is truly a modeler’s best friend. For this article I am going to talk about citadel liquid green stuff. Liquid green stuff is like regular green stuff except that you don’t have to mix it and it can be applied with a paint brush. This stuff is a must have in my opinion I use it to fill in gaps left from assembling my models. When I use it I put a layer on then wipe it off so it only remains in the gap then I will this repeat this step depending on how bad the gap is. After that I paint another layer of liquid green stuff on and leave it to dry. After 30 minutes I use an emery board and file over the area until it is smooth. You can also use regular green stuff for this however in my opinion it is much harder and takes a lot more time to do. It is important to remember never to leave the liquid green stuff bottle open for a long period of time or it will dry out and you will not be able to use it again.


My experiences with my Necron army so far has only been with the Warriors, Immortals and the Overlords from the Command Barge kit. When assembling the Immortals READ the instructions I can’t stress this enough. This is one of those kits that you have to read the instructions on, because the tubes have to go on a certain gun and then they have to match a certain back. Since I didn’t read the instructions the on my first 5 I assembled I pretty much wasted a box of Immortals by something as stupid as not reading the instructions. As far as the warriors go there are a lot of mold lines since they are an older kit and they are hard to get out. It takes longer to get the mold lines out then to paint the dang models. As far as the Overlord goes be careful when cutting his legs out because his left leg tend bend at the ankle every time I cut it out. This happened 3 times for me no matter how I cut his legs out but it wasn’t to bad and was a simple fix by simply bending his ankle back. The other thing to keep in mind with the Overlord from this kit is when cutting out the Overlords back the there are parts of his cape that are attached to the frame and it is easy to cut part of the cape off. The best solution is to cut some of the frame off with the cape and then cut the extra plastic off of the cape.



Step 4 painting will be up in a couple of days and then I am planning on doing my painting tutorial.

Grizwald

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